Waterproof Fabric 101: Coated vs. Trilaminate
Not all waterproof jackets are built the same – and understanding the difference can save you money, keep you drier, and help your gear last significantly longer. Whether you’re racing offshore, cruising coastal waters, or simply trying to stay dry in foul weather, the fabric your jacket is made from matters.
There are two main types of waterproof construction used in today’s marine and outdoor gear: coated fabric and trilaminate. Each works differently, performs differently, and requires different care. In this guide, we break down exactly how each is made, why seam taping is non-negotiable, and how to properly wash and condition your gear so it protects you season after season.
1. How Coated Waterproof Fabric Works
The most common waterproofing method found in lower-priced gear is coated fabric. The process starts with a woven outer fabric – typically polyester, nylon, or a poly-nylon blend – and waterproofing is added through a manufacturing coating process.
During production, a liquid coating is applied directly to the fabric in approximately six to eight microscopic layers. These layers build up to create a robust waterproof barrier. If you look inside a coated jacket, you’ll notice a white, shiny inner surface – that’s the coating.
How Does It Still Breathe?
If the fabric is coated to be waterproof, how does moisture vapor escape? The answer lies in tiny bubbles built into the coating that break down during manufacturing, creating microscopic passages. Vapor molecules are small and energetic enough to work their way through these passages and escape – while liquid water droplets are too large to enter.
Think of vapor like a Jack Russell Terrier – a breed originally developed to chase rats through tunnels. Your body vapor is just as relentless: it moves, searches, and finds a way out through those microscopic passages in the coating.
— Team 1 Newport
2. Why Seams Need Taping – And What to Look For
A waterproof outer shell means very little if the seams leak. Here’s the problem: every single stitch through waterproof fabric creates approximately 25 holes. Those tiny holes are exactly where water finds its way in during heavy rain or spray.
The solution is taped seams – a clear tape applied over every seam on the inside of the jacket, sealing all the needle holes. This is one of the most important features to check when buying a waterproof jacket.
What to look for when buying: Look for the clear seam tape visible on the inside of the jacket. This confirms the seams are fully sealed. On some jackets you can also see it from the outside. This applies to both coated and trilaminate jackets.
3. How Trilaminate (Membrane) Fabric Works
The premium alternative to coated fabric is trilaminate (or duo-laminate) construction. Instead of coatings, it uses a waterproof membrane. The most well-known membrane is Gore-Tex, which was the original membrane technology developed for high-performance outdoor gear.
A trilaminate jacket is literally three materials bonded together into one unified fabric:
- Outer fabric – a woven nylon or polyester shell, similar to a coated jacket’s outer layer.
- Waterproof membrane – the high-performance layer that does the real work. Think of it as a chain-link fence for water.
- Inner scrim – a soft protective layer (often silver or dark gray in appearance) that shields the membrane from wear caused by skin or base layers rubbing against it.
These three layers are bonded together through a calendaring process: they pass through heated rollers with adhesive so they fuse into a single, unified fabric.
The membrane is like a chain-link fence. Your vapor molecules are like BBs – they pass right through easily. But water droplets are like basketballs – they simply cannot get through. That’s why a trilaminate jacket keeps you dry while still breathing.
— Team 1 Newport
Getting softer and lighter: Trilaminate jackets used to feel noticeably stiffer than coated ones.
Today, improvements in outer fabrics and bonding processes have made modern trilaminates soft, supple, and significantly lighter – without sacrificing durability.
4. Coated vs. Trilaminate: Side-by-Side Comparison
Use this table to quickly compare the two construction types and decide which is right for your needs:
| Feature | Coated Fabric | Trilaminate |
| Waterproofing method | 6–8 microscopic liquid coating layers | Bonded waterproof membrane (e.g., Gore-Tex) |
| Breathability | Good – via coating bubbles | Better – open membrane structure |
| Expected lifespan | 3-6 years with regular use | 10-15 years |
| Ease of care | Moderate – no dryer, air dry only | Easier – dryer-safe on low heat |
| Feel & weight | Generally lighter and flexible | Increasingly soft & light in modern versions |
| Price point | Lower cost | Higher cost |
| Conditioning frequency | Once per year | At least twice per year (heavy use) |
| Dryer safe? | No – air dry only | Yes – low heat with clean towels |
5. How to Wash, Condition & Care for Your Gear
Modern waterways carry oil, salt, and chemical contaminants – including PFAS – that break down waterproof coatings over time. Regular washing and conditioning extends the life of your gear significantly.
Washing a Trilaminate Jacket – Step by Step
- Zip up all zippers fully.
- Close all Velcro. This is critical – Velcro hooks will snag and damage the fabric during the wash cycle.
- Place the jacket in the washing machine and run a delicate cycle with your regular detergent.
- Once that cycle finishes, add your conditioner (Nikwax, Grangers, or Revivex) into the dispenser and run a second delicate cycle. This coats the entire jacket and restores its water-repellent protection.
- Remove the jacket – it will drip water, so have a towel ready. Place it in the dryer on low heat with two clean towels. The towels absorb excess moisture immediately, and the gentle heat helps set the conditioner into the fabric.
Coated Fabric Jackets – Key Difference
The washing and conditioning steps are the same for coated fabric, with one critical exception: do not put coated fabric in the dryer. Air dry only. The rest of the conditioning process applies equally.
After Every Saltwater Use
Always rinse your gear with fresh water after saltwater exposure. Salt accelerates fabric breakdown and should never be left to dry on your gear. This is especially important in high-salinity environments like the Caribbean, where salt concentration in the water is higher.
How Often to Condition
| Gear Type | Heavy Use | Light Use |
| Trilaminate jacket | At least twice per year | Once per year |
| Coated fabric jacket | Once per year | Once per year |
| Light-colored coated jacket | More frequently as needed | Once per year |
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Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between coated and trilaminate waterproof fabric?
Coated fabric uses multiple microscopic liquid coatings applied on top of a woven nylon or polyester outer fabric. Trilaminate fabric uses a waterproof membrane – such as Gore-Tex – bonded between an outer fabric and an inner scrim layer using a heat-and-glue calendaring process. Trilaminate is more breathable, more durable (10–15 years vs. 3–6 years), and easier to care for.
How do waterproof jackets stay breathable?
In coated fabrics, microscopic bubbles in the coating disintegrate to create tiny passages that allow vapor to escape while blocking liquid water. In trilaminate fabrics, a membrane acts like a chain-link fence: vapor molecules pass through easily, while water droplets cannot.
Why do waterproof jackets need taped seams?
Each stitch through waterproof fabric creates approximately 25 holes – and that’s exactly where water enters. Taped seams apply a clear tape over every seam, sealing those holes. Look for the tape on the inside of the jacket when purchasing.
How do I wash and condition a trilaminate jacket?
Close all Velcro and zippers, then wash on a delicate cycle. After the first cycle, add a conditioner (Nikwax, Grangers, or Revivex) to the dispenser and run a second delicate cycle. Tumble dry on low heat with two clean towels – the towels absorb excess moisture and the heat sets the conditioner.
Can a coated waterproof jacket go in the dryer?
No. Coated fabric jackets should air dry (hang dry) only. Only trilaminate jackets can be tumble dried, and only on a low heat setting with clean towels to absorb excess moisture.
How often should I condition my waterproof gear?
For trilaminate gear used frequently, condition at least twice a year. With lighter use, once per year is fine. Coated fabric jackets should be conditioned once a year – more often for light-colored jackets. After any saltwater use, always rinse with fresh water before allowing to dry.
What products should I use to condition waterproof gear?
Recommended products include Nikwax, Grangers, and Revivex- all available at Team 1 Newport. These restore the DWR (durable water repellent) protection and help your gear last for many seasons.
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